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Are you looking for the perfect free bunny crochet pattern to make for spring? This no sew amigurumi bunny isa quick project that makes a great addition to Easter baskets. This cute bunny works up nicely in velvet, chenille, blanket yarn, and more!

The best part about this free bunny crochet pattern is that it is entirely no sew! The legs, body, and head are worked continuously, with the tail, arms, and ears all crocheted directly into the piece as you work.

I would classify this free bunny crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Pin this no sew bunny crochet pattern on Pinterest for later.

Save this free bunny crochet pattern on Ravelry here.

Free Crochet Pattern for Snuggle Bunny

stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
DC = double crochet
DC2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• This pattern requires no sewing. The legs, body, and head are all worked as one piece, and the tail, arms, and ears are worked directly into the body as you work, rather than sewing later.
• All pieces, with the exception of ear option 2, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Ear option 1 is worked in the round and is recommended for yarn choices that will show more stitch definition. Ear option 2 is worked flat and is recommended for yarn choices that are furry/fluffy.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Legs, body, and head all require full stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the tail or arms.  
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using the hook size indicated in Pattern Specifics above:

Tail

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: Fold the tail closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3-8: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R9: Fold the arm closed, leaving 1 unworked st on each side for the fold. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across. (4 sts) See tutorial photos.

Fasten off.

Ear Option 1 (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R5-8: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R10: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R12-14: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R16: Fold the ear closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Ear Option 2 (make 2)

Note that you are working from the bottom of the ear to the to the top of the ear. Do not use the invisible decrease method for the decrease stitches in the ears.

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Ch 4, turn, 1 SC in second ch from hook and each st across. (3 sts)

R2: Ch 2, turn, 2 DC in first st, 1 DC in next st, 2 DC in last st. (5 sts)

R3-8: Ch 2, turn, 1 DC in each st across. (5 sts)

R9: Ch 2, turn, DC2tog, 1 DC in next, DC2tog. (3 sts)

R10: Ch 1, turn, SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. (2 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

First Leg

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3-5: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Fasten off.

Second Leg

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3-5: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R6: Ch 2. Join to first leg with a SC. Add a stitch marker to this first SC st. SC in each st around first leg, across ch 2, around second leg, back across ch 2, to beginning. (22 sts) See tutorial photos.

Do not fasten off. Move on to body.

Body

R7: 1 SC in each st around. (22 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 10 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Fill the legs with stuffing.

R10: 1 SC in each of the next 14 sts. Place the tail, and working through both the sts of the tail and the sts of the body, 1 SC in the next 3 sts. 1 SC in each of the next 13 sts. (30 sts) See tutorial photos.

R11-13: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R14: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R15-17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Place the first arm, and working through both the sts of the arm and the sts of the body, 1 SC in the next 4 sts. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts. Place the second arm, and working through the sts of the arm and the sts of the body, 1 SC in the next 4 sts. 1 SC in the last st. (24 sts) See tutorial photos.

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill the body with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to head.

Head

R21: 2 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R22: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R23-28: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R30: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert them between R27 and R28, with 5 sts between.

Fill the head with stuffing.

R31: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Note: Do not use the invisible decrease method for the stitches worked through the ears.

For Ear Option 1:

R32: SC2tog, SC2tog, Place the first ear, and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease), SC2tog (standard decrease; starting in the last st of the ear and finishing in the next st of the head), SC2tog (standard decrease; starting in the next st of the head and finishing in the first st of the second ear), and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease). See tutorial photos. (6 sts)

For Ear Option 2:

R32: SC2tog, SC2tog, Place the first ear, and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease). SC2tog, SC2tog. Place the second ear, and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease). (6 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Finishing

Embroider a nose on R26, over 2 sts. Embroider a line from the middle of the nose, down 2 sts for the mouth. See tutorial photos.

If desired, embroider white edges around the eyes and add eyelids, or add eyelashes.

For video tutorials for embroidering on amigurumi, check out my amigurumi embroidery post.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Snuggle Bunny

Tips & Tricks

• Keep track of your continuous rounds with this free bunny crochet pattern by using a stitch marker to indicate the first stitch of each round.
• Use the invisible decrease method while making this no sew bunny crochet pattern to make your SC2tog stitches blend in with your single crochet stitches.
• Check out this list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas for this free bunny crochet pattern.

Alterations

• Try out different yarns with this no sew bunny crochet pattern like Parfait Chunky, blanket yarn, and many more, along with a hook that suits your desired yarn to create a variety of sizes. Click here for help choosing a hook size for your yarn choice on this no sew amigurumi bunny.
• Use fur yarn to create a fun and fuzzy no sew amigurumi bunny.

More Free No sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free bunny crochet pattern! Take a look at my other free amigurumi crochet patterns. For more no sew amigurumi or minimal sewing amigurumi, check out this free bear crochet pattern and this no sew turtle crochet pattern.

Looking for a functional way to use your crochet skills and get organized this year? This free basket crochet pattern is the perfect solution! These small crochet basket patterns include two sizes to help you organize your desk, drawers, makeup, and more!

I would classify this free basket crochet pattern as a “beginner” level pattern. Minimal crochet experience is necessary. For more detailed instructions on the stitches used here, take a look at my crochet stitch tutorials.

Save this pattern on Pinterest to find it later.

Add this small crochet basket pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Storage Bowls

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
BLO = back loops only

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook size that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight so that your crochet basket pattern will stand upright.
• This pattern is worked in the round.

Pattern

Using 9.0mm (M) hook:

Large Bowl

R1: Begin with 8 SC in a magic ring. Join with a sl st to beginning. (8 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (16 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (32 sts)

R5: Working in BLO, 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (32 sts)

R6-12: 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (32 sts)

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

Small Bowl

R1: Begin with 8 SC in a magic ring. Join with a sl st to beginning. (8 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (16 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

R4: Working in BLO, 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

R5-7: 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

I hope you enjoyed this free basket crochet pattern!

Tips & Tricks

• No matter what yarn you choose to use, be sure that your hook size creates a tight enough fabric to allow the crochet basket pattern to stand upright.
• Keep track of your rounds with this free basket crochet pattern by using a stitch marker in the first stitch.

More Free Crochet Patterns for your Home

I hope you enjoyed this free basket crochet pattern! Check out my other crochet patterns for your home, such as the small plant hanger or rainbow dreams wall hanging!

Are you looking for the perfect crochet Valentine’s gift? This cute little love bug crochet pattern makes a great gift and fun decor to celebrate the holiday.

I would classify this free love bug crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free Valentine’s day crochet pattern on Pinterest to easily find it later.

Add this free love bug crochet pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Lulu the Love Bug

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces, except for the antennas are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body and head require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the wings.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R4: *2SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Using color B (shown as red):

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R7-8: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R9-11: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Using color B (shown as red):

R12-14: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R15-17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Using color B (shown as red):

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to head.

Head

Using color C (shown as light pink):

R21: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R22: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R23: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R24: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R25-30: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R31: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R32: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert them now between R29-30 with approximately 4 sts between each. Do not attach the backs to the safety eyes yet.

Using black yarn, add two eyelashes from the same stitch that you inserted your safety eyes, over 1 stitch. Attach safety eye backings. See tutorial photos.

Fill with stuffing.

R33: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R34: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R35: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Antennas (make 2)

Using color C (shown as light pink):

R1: Ch 9, turn, sl st in second ch from hook and each ch to beginning. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Wings (make 2)

Using color D (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat form * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5-7: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat form * around. (12 sts)

R10-11: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R12: Fold the wing closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach the wings to the back of the body over R12-17, aligned with the color change, with approximately 2 sts between each wing.

Attach antennas on each side of the top of the head, over R34.

Using color A (shown as pink), embroider blush under each eye, between R27-28, over 2 sts.

Using color D (shown as black), embroider a smile centered between the blush, over R25-26, with approximately 5 sts between each end of the smile.

For video tutorials on adding embroidery to your amigurumi love bug crochet pattern, check out this post on amigurumi embroidery.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Lulu the Love Bug

Tips & Tricks

• Use the invisible color change method for this project to have seamless color changes along your love bug crochet pattern.
• Using the invisible decrease will ensure that your SC2tog stitches blend in with your other single crochets on this Valentine’s Day crochet pattern.
• Use a stitch marker to keep track of your continuous rounds with this free bug crochet pattern.

Alterations

• Use various amigurumi embroidery techniques to create unique creations with this love bug crochet pattern. Check out my post on amigurumi embroidery.
• Use a chunky yarn, such as Parfait Chunky, to create a larger plush love bug for your crochet Valentine’s gifts.

More Free Animal Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this Valentine’s Day crochet pattern for Lulu the Love Bug crochet pattern! Check out my other free amigurumi crochet patterns. You may enjoy my free mouse crochet pattern, no sew turtle, or farm animal collection.

I’m so happy to share the newest pattern that is hopping into my collection, Fergus the Frog amigurumi! This free frog crochet pattern is completely no sew, and works up so quickly!

I would classify this free frog crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free frog crochet pattern on Pinterest so that you can easily find it later.

Add this free frog amigurumi to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Fergus the Frog

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• This pattern requires no sewing. The eyes, head, and body are worked as one piece, with the arms and legs worked directly into the body as you work, rather than sewing later.
• All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• All pieces require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Arms (make 2)

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (21 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Fasten off.

First Eye

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fasten off.

Second Eye

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R5: Ch 3, join to first eye with a SC. Add a stitch marker to this first SC st. SC in each st around first eye, across ch 3, around second eye, back across ch 3, to beginning (30 sts) See tutorial photos.

Do not fasten off. Move on to head.

Head

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 12 sts. Repeat from * around. (39 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert eyes in each eye piece, between R3-4, with the working yarn being on the back of the head.  

Fill eyes with stuffing.

R11-12: 1 SC in each st around. (39 sts)

R13: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R14-15: 1 SC in each st around (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to body.

Body

R20: 2 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R21: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Place the first arm, and working through both the sts of the arm and the sts of the body, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Place the second arm, and working through the sts of the arm and the sts of the body, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. (30 sts) See tutorial photos.

R23-29: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R30: 1 SC in each of the next 12 sts. Place the first leg, and working through both the sts of the leg and the sts of the body, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Place the second leg, and working through both the sts of the leg and the sts of the body, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. (30 sts) See tutorial photos.

R31: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R32: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill body with stuffing.

R33: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R34: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand. Weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Using color B (shown as black), embroider smile between R11-12, with about 7 sts between the top ends of the smile, sloping down over 3 rows.

Using color C (shown as pink), embroider blush to the top side of each smile, over 2 sts, between R9-10.

I hope you enjoyed this free frog crochet pattern! If you are looking for more fun patterns, be sure to check out my other amigurumi crochet patterns!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Fergus the Frog

Tips & Tricks

• Use the invisible decrease stitch to ensure that your SC2tog stitches blend in with your other single crochet stitches on this free frog crochet pattern.
• When working in continuous rounds in this free frog crochet pattern, use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds.

Alterations

• Using a chunky yarn, like Parfait Chunky, to create this free frog crochet pattern in a larger plush size.
• Change the embroidery style on the face of this free frog crochet pattern to create different looks for your frog amigurumi.

More Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free frog crochet pattern! Check out my other free amigurumi crochet patterns like Lyla the Llama, the no sew Snuggle Bunny, and my collection of dinosaur crochet patterns.

Whether you call it a lovey, security blanket, soother blanket, snuggler, etc., loveys are one of my favorite things to make! This bunny lovey crochet pattern is no exception, and makes an excellent baby shower gift for expecting moms. You can also add this bunny blanket crochet project to an Easter basket for little ones.

I would classify this free bunny lovey crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Pin this bunny lovey crochet pattern for later.

Save this free bunny blanket crochet pattern to your Ravelry queue!

Free Crochet Pattern for Hug Me Bunny Lovey

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Head and arms require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.
• Blanket corners are made of the following sequence: SC, ch 2, SC. Mark the start of each blanket round with a st marker at the beginning ch 3.  
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Head

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R14: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert them now between R8-9, with 6 sts between.

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R18: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3. *2 SC in next, 1 SC in next. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R13: Fold the ear closed, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across. See tutorial photos. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Arms (make 2)

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R5: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (10 sts)

R7-12: 1 SC in each st around. (10 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R13: Fold the arm closed, working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Bow

Using color B (shown as teal):

R1: Ch 11, 1 SC in second ch from hook and each st to end. (10 sts)

R2-6: Ch 1, 1 SC in back loops of each st to end. (10 sts)

Cut yarn, weave in ends.

Pinch the middle of the bow. Using a long strand of yarn, wrap around the middle of the bow. Tie off, cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Using 5.0mm (H) crochet hook:

Blanket

Using color C (shown as purple):

R1: Begin with 8 SC in a magic ring. Join with a sl st to beginning. (8 sts)

R2: Ch 3 (counts as SC + ch 2 now and throughout), 1 SC in same st (creating first corner), ch 1, skip next st, *[SC, ch 2, SC] (corner made), ch 1, skip next st, Repeat from * to beginning. Join with a sl st to beginning ch 3 space. (4 ch 1 spaces, 4 corner spaces)

R3: Ch 3, SC into same ch 3 space from previous round (creating first corner), *ch 1, SC + ch 1 in ch 1 space from previous round, [SC, ch 2, SC] in corner space (corner made). Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Ch 1, SC + ch 1 in ch 1 space from previous round. Join with a sl st to beginning ch 3 space. (8 ch 1 spaces, 4 corner spaces)

R4: Ch 3, SC into same ch 3 space from previous round (creating first corner), *ch 1, SC + ch 1 in each ch 1 space from previous round to corner, [SC, ch 2, SC] in corner space (corner made). Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Ch 1, SC + ch 1 in each ch 1 space from previous round to beginning. Join with a sl st to beginning ch 3 space.

R5-21: Repeat R4.

Using color B (shown as teal):

R22-24: Repeat R4.

Using color C (shown as purple):

R25-26. Repeat R4.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach each ear to either side of the top of the head, over R3-6.

Using pink yarn, embroider a nose in the shape of a Y with the tips between R10-11, centered between the eyes, with approximately 4 sts between, dipping down over 2 rows, with a small line down for the post, over 1 row.

For a more feminine bunny, attach the bow on the top of the head, either in front of one ear, or centered between the ears.

Angling the blanket to be in a diamond shape rather than a square, attach head to the middle of the blanket. Be sure to sew to the top loops of the blanket only to ensure a clean underside of the blanket.

For a more masculine bunny, attach the bow below the head as a bow tie.

Attach arms to the blanket on either side of the head, facing towards the front, close enough that they appear to be connected to the head.

I hope you enjoyed this free bunny lovey crochet pattern! If you are looking for more fun lovey crochet patterns, check out this list of lovey patterns here!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Hug Me Bunny Lovey

Tips & Tricks

• When selecting your yarn, be sure that you choose a fiber that can withstand frequent washing. I typically lean towards acrylic yarns when making amigurumi toys and loveys. My favorite acrylic yarn is Brava.
• Use the invisible decrease stitch for your SC2tog stitches so that they blend in with your other single crochet stitches on this free bunny lovey crochet pattern.
• Using pins while assembly will keep your pieces in place to ensure proper placement.

Alterations

• Creating a larger blanket on this free bunny lovey crochet pattern is simple; just add additional rows following the same pattern to the desired length.
• If creating this lovey as a toy for ages 3 and under, be sure to use an alternative for safety eyes. Embroidered sleepy eyes would look so cute!

More Free Lovey Crochet Patterns

I hope you enjoyed this free bunny lovey crochet pattern! You may also like the pig lovey crochet pattern or the bear lovey crochet pattern, both of which are free crochet patterns! You can find my entire collection of lovey crochet patterns right here on my blog.

I am so excited to finally be sharing my Marley Lace Top pattern with you! This crochet summer top design has had a few firsts for me: my first time working with a fingering weight yarn, my first time using a hank, and also my first garment pattern design! I hope you enjoy this free top crochet pattern!

I would classify this crochet summer top pattern as “intermediate” skill level.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Save this free top crochet pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Pin this crochet summer top pattern for later.

This free top crochet pattern is worked as one piece, with only minimal seaming required, which is a win in my book! I used this beautiful Hawthorne yarn from WeCrochet for this crochet summer top, which comes in some amazing colorways! I think that this top shows off the Midwinter Kettle Dye perfectly!

Free Crochet Pattern for Marley Lace Top

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
tch = turning chain
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet

Notes

• Note that your yarn choice, hook size, and tension will affect the sizing of this project. Please check your gauge prior to starting this pattern. If you do not compare your gauge to that of the design, it is possible that your sizing will be affected.
• Note that your choice of fiber will impact the fit and drape of your top. For best results, I recommend using a yarn with minimal stretch.
• Chain 1 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a stitch (unless otherwise specified).
• Chain 3 at the beginning of each lace row DOES count as a stitch (unless otherwise specified).
• Chain 2 at the beginning of each body row does NOT count as a stitch (unless otherwise specified).
• Approximate schematic measurements for each size are what the piece should comfortably stretch to (the actual measurements will be shorter).
• If you need to adjust the width of the lace piece to meet measurements, be sure to do so by adding or removing multiples of 6 to your starting chain. Starting chain should be a multiple of 6, plus 4 chains, with an even number of multiples.
• See tutorial diagram.

Sizing

This pattern is sized based on your bust measurement (see below). It is intended to have a “classic” fit, with approximately 2” positive ease.

Schematics

Pattern

Part 1a (Lace front)

XS: Ch 88
S: Ch 100
M: Ch 112
L: Ch 124
XL: Ch 136
2X: Ch 148
3X: Ch 160
4X: Ch 172
5X: Ch 184

For all sizes:

R1: Work 1 SC in 2nd ch from hook. 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. *Ch 5, skip next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * across. Turn.

R2: Ch 1. 1 SC in each of the first 2 SC. *Ch 3, skip next SC, 1 SC in 3rd ch of the next ch5 space, ch 3, skip next SC, 1 SC in next SC. Repeat from * across. 1 SC in last st. Turn.

R3: Ch 3 (counts as DC). Skip first SC, 1 DC in next SC. Ch 2. *1 SC in 3rd ch of next ch2 space, 1 SC in next SC, 1 SC in first ch of next ch2 space**. Ch 5. Skip next SC. Repeat from * across, ending last repeat at **. Ch 2, 1 DC in each of the last 2 SC sts. Turn.

R4: Ch 1. SC in each of the first 2 DC. *Ch 3, Skip next SC, 1 SC in next SC, Ch 3**, Skip next SC, 1 SC in 3rd ch of next ch5 space. Repeat from * across, ending last repeat at **. 1 SC in next DC, 1 SC in top of tch. Turn.  

R5: Ch 1. 1 SC in each of the first 2 SC, 1 SC in first ch of the next ch2 space. *Ch 5, skip next SC, 1 SC in 3rd ch of next ch2 space, 1 SC in next SC**, 1 SC in first ch of next ch2 space. Repeat from * across, ending last repeat at **. 1 SC in last SC. Turn.

Stitch Tutorial Diagram

R6-21: Repeat R2-5.  

For sizes XS, S, or M size, move on to part 1b.

R22-25: Repeat R2-5.

For sizes L, or XL, move on to part 1b.

R26-29: Repeat R2-5.

For sizes 2X, or 3X, move on to part 1b.

R30-33: Repeat R2-5.

For sizes 4X, or 5X, move on to part 1b.

Part 1b (Neck hole and lace back)

R22(26, 30, 34): Continue with R2 pattern across the specified number of ch spaces.

XS: 3 ch spaces (making 5 new ch 3 spaces)
S: 4 ch spaces (making 7 new ch 3 spaces)
M, L: 5 ch spaces (making 9 new ch 3 spaces)
XL, 2X: 6 ch spaces (making 11 new ch 3 spaces)
3X-4X: 7 ch spaces (making 13 new ch 3 spaces)
5X: 8 ch spaces (making 15 new ch 3 spaces)

Next you will ch the specified amount below.

XS, S, M: Ch 62 (skipping 8 ch spaces)
L, XL: Ch 76 (skipping 10 ch spaces)
2X, 3X: ch 90 (skipping 12 ch spaces)
4X, 5X: Ch 104 (skipping 14 ch spaces)

Continue with R2 pattern in the next ch space, working in the remaining 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 ch spaces.

R23(27, 31, 35): Continue with R3 pattern creating:

XS: 1 ch 2 space and 2 ch 5 spaces
S: 1 ch 2 space and 3 ch 5 spaces
M, L: 1 ch 2 space and 4 ch 5 spaces
XL, 2X: 1 ch 2 space and 5 ch 5 spaces
3X, 4X: 1 ch 2 space and 6 ch 5 spaces
5X: 1 ch 2 space and 7 ch 5 spaces

With the final SC of your 3 SC sequence ending on the first ch stitch of the ch 62 / 76 / 90 / 104 from previous row. *Ch 5, skip the next 4 ch sts, 1 SC in each of the next 3 chs. Repeat from * with the first SC of your 3 SC sequence starting in your final ch st, and the remaining 2 SCs worked in the SC and ch st from previous row. (9 / 11 / 13 / 15) new ch 5 spaces created).

Continue with R3 pattern creating:

XS: 1 ch 2 space and 2 ch 5 spaces
S: 1 ch 2 space and 3 ch 5 spaces
M, L: 1 ch 2 space and 4 ch 5 spaces
XL, 2X: 1 ch 2 space and 5 ch 5 spaces
3X, 4X: 1 ch 2 space and 6 ch 5 spaces
5X: 1 ch 2 space and 7 ch 5 spaces

R24(28, 32, 36)-25(29, 33, 37): Repeat R4-5.

R26(30, 34, 38)-41: Repeat R2-5.

For sizes XS, S, or M size, fasten off and move on to part 2.

R42-49: Repeat R2-5.

For sizes L, or XL, fasten off and move on to part 2.

R50-57: Repeat R2-5.

For sizes 2X, or 3X, fasten off and move on to part 2.

R58-65: Repeat R2-5.

For sizes 4X, or 5X, fasten off and move on to part 2.

Part 2 (Body front)

You will begin working part 2 on the beginning chain that started part 1. Attach yarn to:

XS, S, M: 13th ch st of the beginning ch, in line with the beginning of a 3 SC sequence in R1.
L, XL: 16th ch st of the beginning ch, in line with the beginning of a ch 5 space in R1.
2X, 3X: 19th ch st of the beginning ch, in line with the beginning of a 3 SC sequence in R1.
4X, 5X: 22nd ch st of the beginning ch, in line with the beginning of a ch 3 space in R1.

R1: Ch 1. 1 SC in each stitch across, working 3 SC in the chs in line with the ch 5 spaces, until you’ve reached the specified number of SC sts.

XS: 63 sts (leaving 12 ch sts unworked)
S: 75 sts (leaving 12 ch sts unworked)
M: 87 sts (leaving 12 ch sts unworked)
L: 93 sts (leaving 15 ch sts unworked)
XL: 105 sts (leaving 15 ch sts unworked)
2X: 117 sts (leaving 18 ch sts unworked)
3X: 129 sts (leaving 18 ch sts unworked)
4X: 141 sts (leaving 21 ch sts unworked)
5X: 153 sts (leaving 21 ch sts unworked)

R2-39: Turn. Ch 2. 1 DC in each st across. (63 / 75 / 87 / 93 / 105 / 117 / 129 / 141 / 153 sts)

For sizes 4X, or 5X, fasten off and move on to part 3.

R40-41: Repeat R2.

For sizes 2X, or 3X, fasten off and move on to part 3.

R42: Repeat R2.

For sizes XS, or L, fasten off and move on to part 3.

R43: Repeat R2.

For sizes S, or XL, fasten off and move on to part 3.

R44: Repeat R2.

For size M, fasten off and move on to part 3.

Part 3 (Body back):

You will begin working part 3 on the last row of part 1. Attach yarn to:

XS, S, M: 7th SC stitch, in line with the beginning of a 3 SC sequence.
L, XL: Beginning of the 3rd ch 5 space.
2X, 3X: 10th SC stitch, in line with the beginning of a 3 SC sequence.
4X, 5X: Beginning of the 4th ch 5 space.

R1: Ch 1. 1 SC in each stitch across, working 3 SC in the ch 5 spaces, until you’ve reached the specified number of SC sts.

XS: 63 sts (leaving 12 ch sts unworked)
S: 75 sts (leaving 12 ch sts unworked)
M: 87 sts (leaving 12 ch sts unworked)
L: 93 sts (leaving 15 ch sts unworked)
XL: 105 sts (leaving 15 ch sts unworked)
2X: 117 sts (leaving 18 ch sts unworked)
3X: 129 sts (leaving 18 ch sts unworked)
4X: 141 sts (leaving 21 ch sts unworked)
5X: 153 sts (leaving 21 ch sts unworked)

R2-39: Turn. Ch 2. 1 DC in each st across. (63 / 75 / 87 / 93 / 105 / 117 / 129 / 141 / 153 sts)

For sizes 4X, or 5X, fasten off and move on to finishing.

R40-41: Repeat R2.

For sizes 2X, or 3X, fasten off and move on to finishing.

R42: Repeat R2.

For sizes XS, or L, fasten off and move on to finishing.

R43: Repeat R2.

For sizes S, or XL, fasten off and move on to finishing.

R44: Repeat R2.

For size M, fasten off and move on to finishing.

Finishing

Weave in ends.

Fold the top in half, with right sides together. Seam each side of your top from the bottom edge of the body to the end of the sleeve.

Turn top right side out.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Marley Lace Top

Tips & Tricks

• Compare your typical size with the schematics of this crochet summer top to ensure that you are selecting the proper size.
• Be sure to check your gauge before beginning this free top crochet pattern to ensure that your finished crochet summer top will meet the intended measurements.
• I recommend using a yarn with minimal stretch, as the choice of fiber will impact the fit and drape of your crochet summer top.

More Free Wearable Crochet Patterns

I’ve wanted to add a crochet elephant to my pattern collection for a while now. I’m so happy to share with you my latest design, Elliot the Elephant. This free elephant crochet pattern is such a fun project and looks great in a variety of yarns!

I would classify this free elephant crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this crochet elephant pattern on Pinterest.

Add this free elephant crochet pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Elliot the Elephant

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, head, legs, arms, and trunk require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the tail or ears.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Trunk

Using color A (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3-11: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Add a small amount of stuffing to the tip of the trunk, and only lightly stuff the rest of the trunk.

Do not fasten off. Move on to head.

Head

R12: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R15: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R17: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R18: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R19: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R17-18, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R20-22: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R25: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R28: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Inner Ear (make 2)

Using color B (shown as dark gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Fasten off.

Outer Ear (make 2)

Using color A (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. Sl st to beginning. (30 sts)

R6: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Inner Ear against the Outer Ear with wrong sides together and right sides facing outward. Working through each layer, SC around the entire ear to beginning. Join with a sl st to beginning. (30 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as dark gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as gray):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as dark gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as gray):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2-6: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R7: Fold the tail closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (2 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Curl the trunk upward and pin. Using a strand of color A, sew the trunk into a curled position.

Attach head to body so trunk is facing out; attaching body to approximately R17-23 of the head.

Fold down the top edge of each ear and sew. Attach each ear on either side of the back of the head so that the tips of the folded edge are about 2 sts apart. Secure the sides of the ear along each side of the tip created by the folded edge.

Attach legs between R5-6 of the body, with the inside of each leg touching in the middle.

Attach arms over R11-16 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 10 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 18 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-5, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Embroider eyebrows over 2-3 sts, approximately 2 rows above each eye. Attach tail between R4-5 of the back of the body.

Attach tail between R4-5 of the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free elephant crochet pattern! If you are looking for more fun amigurumi patterns after this crochet elephant, check out my collection of amigurumi patterns!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Elliot the Elephant

Tips & Tricks

• The invisible decrease technique can ensure that your SC2tog stitches blend in with your single crochet stitches on this crochet elephant.
• Use a stitch marker when working in continuous rounds in this free elephant crochet pattern.

Alterations

• To create a larger crochet elephant, use a chunky yarn like Parfait Chunky.
• Add embroidered eyelashes for a more feminine crochet elephant.
• If you’re making this free elephant crochet pattern for a baby, use embroidered eyes. Find embroidery tutorials on this amigurumi embroidery post.

More Free Animal Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free elephant crochet pattern! After you make this crochet elephant, check out my other free amigurumi patterns like my farm animal collection and dinosaur collection.

Meet Mini Tanner, the smaller version of my crochet triceratops pattern, Tanner the Triceratops. Mini Tanner is about half the height of the original Tanner, making him the perfect size for creating dinosaur amigurumi families.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

If you like this crochet triceratops pattern, you may be interested in all of my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.

Be sure to add this mini triceratops crochet pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Pin this pattern on Pinterest.

I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Mini Tanner the Triceratops

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, head, legs, arms, tail, and horns require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this: (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 19, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (18 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R4-5, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R12-14, on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R15.

Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R5-6 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle. 

Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 15 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail. 

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this mini crochet triceratops pattern! After you make this crochet triceratops, be sure to check out my other dinosaur patterns, such as the full size Tanner the Triceratops or Mini Stevie the Stygimoloch.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Tanner the Triceratops

Tips & Tricks

• Use stitch markers to keep track of your continuous rounds when making this free mini triceratops crochet pattern.
• Use pins to hold the pieces of your crochet triceratops when sewing to keep your pieces in their desired placement.
• This list of amigurumi tips and tricks are great to follow for your crochet triceratops and other amigurumi projects.

Alterations

• Use this free strawberry modification to make a strawberry crochet triceratops!
• Make a candy corn crochet triceratops version of Mini Tanner with this free pattern modification.
• For a Christmas themed version of this crochet triceratops dinosaur, check out the Christmas tree cake dinosaur pattern modification!
• For a larger crochet triceratops, check out the free crochet pattern for the original Tanner the Triceratops.
• Use a plush yarn like Parfait Chunky to create a larger amigurumi dinosaur with this free crochet triceratops pattern.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free mini crochet triceratops pattern! If you love dinosaurs as much as I do, and want to crochet more amigurumi dinosaurs, check out my full collection of dinosaur crochet patterns.

I knew I wanted to add more sports themed bears to my pattern collection. This next addition is a cute and free baseball crochet pattern, Batter the Baseball Bear!

I would classify this free teddy bear baseball crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free crochet pattern on Pinterest to find it later.

Add this teddy bear baseball crochet pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Batter the Baseball Bear

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• All pieces, with the exception of the ears, require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.  
• See tutorial photos. 

Pattern

Using the hook size indicated in Pattern Specifics above:

Legs (make 2)

Using color A (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R5: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R11: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. (5 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Body

Using color B (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, place the first leg with 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, place the second leg with 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts. (30 sts)

R7-12: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R13: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat form * around. (24 sts)

R14: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to the head.

Head

Using color A (shown as brown):

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R17: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R19: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R20-24: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R25: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R26: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert them now between R23-24, with 5 sts between.

R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Weave in and out of remaining sts and pull tight to close. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3-5: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R7-9: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R10: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. (4 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Snout

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R4: Fold the ear closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. (4 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Pin the snout to the front of the face, just below the eyes, over R19-23. Begin sewing, leaving an opening before sewing the entire way, add stuffing, and finish sewing.

Using black yarn, embroider nose on the snout at R2-3 with a line downwards to the middle of the magic ring.

Attach ears to each side of the top of the head, between R26-29.

Align pins along the body to outline the baseball threads. See tutorial photos. Using red yarn, embroider lines in the shape of a V around the body to resemble a baseball.

Video Tutorial for Baseball Embroidery

This video is also available on YouTube. Watch this video: Embroidering Baseball Crochet Tutorial on YouTube.

Attach arms over R11-14 of each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 16 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free baseball crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Batter the Baseball Bear

Tips & Tricks

• When you are assembling this baseball bear crochet pattern, use pins to hold your pieces in place to ensure proper placement.
• While working in continuous rounds on this free baseball crochet pattern, use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to keep track.
• Check out this list of amigurumi tips for more helpful ideas for improving your amigurumi projects, like this baseball crochet pattern!

Alterations

• Personalize this teddy bear baseball crochet pattern to match your favorite baseball team!
• Use this bear baseball crochet pattern to make a softball bear by changing the white yarn to a bright yellow!
• Adjust your hook size to the specific yarn that you are using when making this baseball crochet pattern. See my post on amigurumi hook sizes for more details.

More Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Are you looking for a few more teddy bear crochet patterns to make after this baseball crochet pattern? You may enjoy my free crochet pattern for Fumble the Football Bear, my nearly no sew Charlie the Chunky Bear pattern, or my Hug Me Bear Lovey crochet pattern.

I hope you enjoyed this teddy bear baseball crochet pattern! See more of my amigurumi crochet patterns for free here on my blog!

Loveys are one of my most favorite projects to make, and this free unicorn lovey crochet pattern is no exception! This pattern has limitless color options, and can easily fit into any nursery.

I would classify this free unicorn lovey crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Pin this free unicorn lovey crochet pattern on Pinterest.

Add this unicorn lovey crochet pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Hug Me Unicorn Lovey

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces, with the exception of the curls, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Head and arms require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.  
• Blanket: chain 3 at the beginning of each round does count as a stitch (unless otherwise specified).
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Head

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 9 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert them between R8-9, with 9 sts between. Do not attach the backs to the safety eyes yet. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

Using black yarn, add two eyelashes from the same stitch that you inserted your safety eyes, over 1 stitch. Attach safety eye backings. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R5-6:1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R8: Fold the ear closed, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. Working through both sides, to close the ear, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 2 unworked sts at the end of the fold. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Insert hook through the remaining 2 unworked sts, pinch the bottom of the ear to bring each end together, and working through both sides, join the ear with 1 SC. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as purple):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Hair Curls A (make 2)

Using color C (shown as blue):

R1: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R2: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R3: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R4: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls B (make 2)

Using color D (shown as peach):

R1: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R2: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R3: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls C (make 2)

Using color E (shown as green):

R1: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R2: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Horn

Using color F (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Using 5.0mm (H) crochet hook:

Blanket

Note that the blanket is in the shape of a star. The ch 3 counts as SC + ch 2 throughout the blanket pattern. The [SC, ch 2, SC] indicates one of 6 points of the star shape.

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring, join with a sl st to beginning. (6 sts)

R2: Ch 1, 2 SC in each st around, join with a sl st to beginning. (12 sts)

R3: Ch 3, 1 SC in same st (creating first point), 1 SC in next st, *work [SC, ch 2, SC] in the next st (point made), 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * to beginning. Join with a sl st to beginning ch 3 space.(18 SC sts and 6 ch 2 point spaces) See tutorial photos.

R4: Ch 3, 1 SC in point space (creating first point), 1 SC in each st to next point, *working in the next point space, [SC, ch 2, SC] (point made), 1 SC in each st to next point. Repeat from * to beginning. Join with a sl st to beginning ch 3 space. (30 SC sts and 6 ch 2 point spaces)

R5: Ch 3, 1 SC in point space (creating first point), ch 1, skip next st, *SC in next st, ch 1, skip next st. Repeat from * to next point. {{Working in the next point space, [SC, ch 2, SC] (point made), ch 1, skip next st, **SC in next st, ch 1, skip next st. Repeat from ** to next point.}} Repeat {{ }} to beginning. Join with a sl st to beginning ch 3 space.

Using color G (shown as pink):

R6: Ch 3, 1 SC in point space (creating first point), ch 1, *SC in next ch 1 space, ch 1. Repeat from * to next point. {{Working in the next point space, [SC, ch 2, SC] (point made), ch 1, **SC in next ch 1 space, ch 1. Repeat from ** to next point.}} Repeat from {{ }} to beginning.

R7: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R8: Repeat R6.

Using color H (shown as blush):

R9-10: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R11: Repeat R6.

Using color D (shown as peach):

R12-13: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R14: Repeat R6.

Using color I (shown as yellow):

R15-16: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R17: Repeat R6.

Using color E (shown as green):

R18-19: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R20: Repeat R6.

Using color J (shown as mint):

R21-22: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R23: Repeat R6.

Using color B (shown as blue):

R24-25: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R26: Repeat R6.

Using color B (shown as purple):

R27-28: Repeat R6.

Using color A (shown as white):

R29: Repeat R6.

Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach horn at R13-14, on the top of head.

Attach an ear over R14-15, on either side of the horn, leaving about 3 sts between the horn and each ear.

Attach curl A to the back of the head diagonally, behind the horn and ears. Attach curl B to the back of the head diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction. Attach curl C to the back of the head diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction.

Using a piece of color A (white), attach head to the middle of the blanket. Be sure to sew to the top loops of the blanket only to ensure a clean underside of the blanket.

Attach arms to the blanket on either side of the head, facing towards the front, close enough that they appear to be connected to the head.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Hug Me Unicorn Lovey

Tips & Tricks

• Use a stitch marker to keep track of your continuous rounds.
• When sewing on your pieces, use pins to hold them in place so they don’t move while you’re sewing.

Alterations

• Create a more fuller mane to this free unicorn lovey crochet pattern by adding extra hair curls.
• Use varying shades of the same color to create a gradient on the unicorn lovey crochet pattern blanket.

More Free Lovey Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this free unicorn lovey crochet pattern, be sure to check out my full collection of lovey crochet patterns.

More Unicorn Crochet Patterns

Be sure to check out my matching unicorn crochet patterns for Mini Poppy the Unicorn and Poppy the Unicorn!

I love dogs, so I’m thrilled to share this new free dog crochet pattern! This amigurumi dog pattern is so much fun to work up, and can easily be customized to match your furry friend!

I would classify this free dog crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free dog crochet pattern on Pinterest!

Add this free dog crochet pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

If you’re looking for a smaller version of this free dog crochet pattern, be sure to check out my free puppy crochet pattern, which is a smaller version of Daniel the Dog.

Free Crochet Pattern for Daniel the Dog

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, head, legs, arms, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R9-16: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts).

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color B (shown as medium brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-8: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R11: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R12: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R13: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R15: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (54 sts)

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (60 sts)

R17-18: 1 SC in each st around. (60 sts)

R19: 1 SC in each of the next 32 sts around. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 28 sts around. (60 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 28 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R14 and R15, with 14 sts between. Embroider around eyes for additional detail, if desired. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (54 sts)

R21: * SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R25: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Ear 1

Using color C (shown as dark brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R9-11: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R12: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R14: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R15: Fold the ear closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (11 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Ear 2

Using color B (shown as medium brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Using color C (shown as dark brown):

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R9-11: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R12: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R14: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R15: Fold the ear closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (11 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as medium brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7-8: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)

R13-20: 1 SC in each st around. (20 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R21: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (9 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as medium brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color C (shown as dark brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2-4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R8-13: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R15-18: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Lightly fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach each ear to the sides of the head between R20-21 with approximately 6 sts between each.

Fold the tips of the ears down. Using a spare piece of yarn with color C, sew ears in the folded position.

Embroider nose over 6 sts of R4 of the head, with a line coming down to R2 on the bottom side of the magic ring.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R15-20 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R7-8 of the body, with the inside of each leg touching in the middle.

Attach arms over R16-23 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 12 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 22 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Attach tail over R9-12, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free dog crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Daniel the Dog

Tips & Tricks

• When you are assembling this amigurumi dog, use pins to hold your pieces in place so that they don’t move around as you are sewing.
• Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each of your continuous rounds of your amigurumi dog crochet pattern.
• Use my tips for preventing a wobbly head when attaching the head to the body of this amigurumi dog.
• Check out my full list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more ideas to use when making this free dog crochet pattern.

Alterations

• Personalize this free dog crochet pattern to match your furry friend with a few color changes!
• Make a matching set with a dog and puppy by also using Peanut the Puppy, another free crochet pattern on my blog!
• Use a plush yarn such as Parfait Chunky to create a larger plush amigurumi dog crochet pattern! Be sure to use the appropriate amigurumi hook size to pair with your yarn.

More Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

If you are looking for more free amigurumi crochet patterns to make after this free dog crochet pattern, be sure to check out my collection of 50+ Amigurumi Animal Crochet Patterns! You may also enjoy my free elephant crochet pattern or free frog crochet pattern.

I hope you enjoyed this free dog crochet pattern! Check out more of my free amigurumi crochet patterns here on my blog!

Looking for a fun and quick crochet pattern to make this summer? Look no further than this cute amigurumi pineapple crochet pattern!

I would classify this free pineapple crochet pattern as a “beginner” level pattern. Minimal crochet experience is necessary. For even more detailed instructions on the stitches used here, take a look at my crochet stitch tutorials.

Be sure to save this pattern on Pinterest to find it later!

Add this amigurumi pineapple to your project queue on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Amigurumi Pineapple

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• Pineapple is worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Pineapple requires stuffing. Stuff as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled.
• All tutorial photos referenced in this document are available at the end of this pattern, or in sequential order in the full-color, formatted PDF that was included with your purchase. 

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
HDC = half double crochet
DC = double crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Pineapple

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-13: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert them now between R9-10, with 4 sts between each eye.

R14: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R18: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand. Weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Leaves (make 3)

Using color B (shown as green):

R1: Ch 11, turn, sl st into second ch from hook, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 sts, 1 DC in each of the next 5 sts.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach first leaf to the top center of the pineapple.

Attach remaining two leaves on the top of the pineapple, layered on each side in front of the first leaf.

Using black yarn, embroider a smile that is 3 sts wide and 1 round high, over R12.

Using black yarn, embroider eyebrows beginning 2 rounds above the eye on the inside, and crossing over 2 sts to the outside of the eye and down 1 round.

I hope you enjoyed this free pineapple crochet pattern as much as I enjoyed creating it!

Ad Free PDF Pattern for Amigurumi Pineapple

Tips & Tricks

• Using stitch markers will help to keep track of the start of your continuous rounds for this amigurumi pineapple.
• The invisible decrease method for SC2tog stitches will allow your decreases to blend in with your SC stitches.

Alterations

• Use a plush yarn like Parfait Chunky for this free pineapple crochet pattern to make a larger amigurumi pineapple. Be sure to select the right amigurumi hook size when using different yarns.
• Change the personality of this cute amigurumi pineapple by embroidering different facial features.

More Free Amigurumi Crochet patterns

If you enjoyed this amigurumi pineapple and are looking for even more amigurumi projects, be sure to check out my other amigurumi patterns! You may especially enjoy my strawberry amigurumi, amigurumi crayon, or amigurumi pencil.

I couldn’t have a farm animal collection without adding a free chicken crochet pattern! Meet Chandler the Chicken, my newest, and now smallest design of all of my farm animals.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

I would classify this free chicken crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free chicken crochet pattern for later on Pinterest.

I’ve made this free chicken crochet pattern in a variety of yarns. I especially loved my fur crochet chicken!

Add this crochet chicken amigurumi to your favorites and save it to your project queue on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Chandler the Chicken

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces, with the exception of the feet and comb, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the wings or beak.  
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

NOTE: The body is worked from the bottom up to the top of the head.

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8-12: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R13: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R14: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Using color B (shown as white):

R16-18: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R19-20, with 5 sts between each.

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R24: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand. Weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Wings (make 2)

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Fold the circle in half. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R8: Fold the tail in half. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Beak

Using color C (shown as orange):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Feet (make 2)

Using color C (shown as orange):

R1: Ch 4, turn, sl st in second ch from hook and each st to end of row (the final st at the end of the row will be referred to herein as the base st).

Ch 3, turn, sl st in second ch from hook, next st, and the base st.

Ch 3, turn, sl st in second ch from hook, next st, and base st.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Comb

Using color D (shown as red):

R1: Ch 8, turn, SC in second ch from hook and each of the next 2 chs. Sl st into the next st. The remaining 3 unworked chs are herein referred to as the base chs.

Ch 6, turn, SC in second ch from hook and each of the next 4 chs, SC into the next unworked base ch, sl st into the next unworked base ch.

Ch 8, turn, SC in second ch from hook and each of the next 6 chs. SC into the last unworked base ch.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach comb to the top of the head, over R23-24, so that all three pieces are standing upright, with the longest in the front.

Attach beak to the front of the head, between the eyes, at R18.

Attach feet to the front of the body, between R7-8, in line with each eye (with approximately 7 sts between the two feet). Be sure to only sew down the middle, so that each of the three points can move freely.

Attach tail to the back of the body, between R6-7. Further secure the tail around R10-11, so that the tail will stay upright against the back of the body.

Attach each wing to either side of the body, with the rounded edge facing down, just below where the first row of color B (white) starts. Angle the wing downwards towards the tail. Further secure the wing to the body, near the middle of the wing, so that it will stay tight against the side of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free crochet chicken pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Chandler the Chicken

Tips & Tricks

• When working in continuous rounds of this amigurumi crochet chicken, keep track of your rows with a stitch marker.
• Use the invisible decrease to eliminate any noticeable bumps in your stitches when making this crochet chicken pattern.
• Reference this list of amigurumi tips for more helpful tips and tricks for improving your amigurumi on this crochet chicken pattern!

Alterations

• Use a yarn like Parfait Chunky or another size 6 yarn, along with a hook that suits your desired yarn to create a much larger crochet chicken amigurumi! When I use Parfait Chunky yarn, I use a 5mm crochet hook.
• Want to turn this free chicken crochet pattern into a hen amigurumi or a chick for Easter? Just make the whole body and comb piece in one solid color, like yellow!
• Using fur yarn when making this free chicken crochet pattern to create a fun and fuzzy crochet chicken amigurumi!
• Take a look at this list of modification ideas to transform this crochet chicken pattern into a variety of different birds!

More Free Farm Animal Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free chicken crochet pattern! If you want to create even more cute farm animal amigurumi, be sure to check out my full collection of free farm animal crochet patterns! Some of my favorites include: Hailey the Horse, Presley the Pig, and Daphne the Duck!

I wanted to make sure to design a summer amigurumi project, and what better way than with this free whale crochet pattern! Echo the Whale is a simple crochet whale with a crown of flowers on her head.

I would classify this free whale crochet pattern as “advanced beginner.” It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Pin this crochet whale pattern on Pinterest.

Add this whale free crochet pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Echo the Whale

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body of whale requires stuffing. Stuff as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the tail or fins.
• See tutorial photos. 

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R9-14: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R16: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. Place a st marker in the last st worked. 1 SC in each of the next 18 sts. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 18 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8-9, with approximately 17 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R18-21: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R22: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 18 sts. (30 sts)

R23-24: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R25: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R27-28: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, SC2tog four times, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. (14)

R30: 1 SC in each st around. (14 sts)

R31: *1 SC, SC2tog. Repeat from * an additional 1 time. 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from ** an additional 1 time. 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. (14 sts)

R32: SC2tog, 1 SC, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * an additional 1 time. 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. (14 sts)

Ensure that body is fully stuffed at this point.

Tail (Part 1)

Note that the tail should remain unstuffed.

R33: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Add a st marker to the next st, but leave it, and the following 6 stitches unworked. 1 SC in each remaining stitch to beginning. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

R34: 2 SC in each st around. (14 sts)

R35: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R36-38: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

R39: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (14 sts)

R40: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R41: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R42: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Tail (Part 2)

Attach yarn to R32 of body, where you placed a st marker.

R33: 1 SC in each st around. (7 sts)

R34-42: Repeat R34-42 of Tail (Part 1).

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

You may notice that there is a small space in between the base of the two tails. If so, close the hole with a piece of yarn and weave in the ends. 

Fins (make 2)

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R7: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R11: Fold the fin closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Flowers (make 3)

Using color B (shown as pink):

R1: Working in a magic ring: *1 SC, ch 4. Repeat from * an additional 4 times. Sl st to beginning SC. (5 ch 4 spaces)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach fins between R14 and R15, just below eye level, sewing both at the end of the fin and in the middle to secure it down.

Attach flowers to the top of the head, at approximately R9-10, leaving about 2 sts between the bottom of each flower.

I hope you enjoyed this free whale crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Echo the Whale

Tips & Tricks

• While making this crochet whale pattern and working in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds.
• The invisible decrease method of SC2tog stitches will help to eliminate any noticeable bumps in your stitches when making this free whale crochet pattern.
• Reference my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas for this crochet whale amigurumi!

Alterations

• Use a yarn like Parfait Chunky or another bulky weight yarn, along with a suitable hook size, will create a larger crochet whale.
• Eliminate the flower crown on this whale free crochet pattern for a more gender neutral crochet whale.

More Free Animal Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free whale crochet pattern! If you’re looking for even more amigurumi projects, be sure to check out mycollection of 50+ amigurumi animal crochet patterns! You may especially enjoy my mini whale free crochet pattern, or Nala the No-Sew Turtle!

My favorite dinosaur is the Parasaurolophus, so I absolutely had to add one to my amigurumi dinosaur collection! Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus is the smaller version of my Parker the Parasaurolophus crochet pattern.

I would classify this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

If you like this pattern, you may also be interested in all of my other free dinosaur crochet patterns.

Pin this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern on Pinterest.

Add this mini Parasaurolophus crochet pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces are worked in the round, unless otherwise specified. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, head, crest, legs, arms, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (28 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (28 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12-16: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3-4: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: 1 SC in each of the next 16 sts. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 14 sts.

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R18: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R20: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Crest

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in next st. (18 sts)

R4-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 13 sts. (16 sts)

R11: SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 12 sts. (14 sts)

*Note that R12 has fewer stitches than the previous and is not a “complete” round. You will not work in every stitch from R11.

R12: 1 HDC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 10 sts. Leave the final stitch unworked. (14 sts)

Fill crest with stuffing.

*Note that R13 will now begin in the final stitch that was left unworked.

R13: Fold the crest closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (6 sts)

R14-15: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (6 sts)

R16: Ch 1, turn, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, SC2tog. (4 sts)

R17-19: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (4 sts)

R20: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. (3 sts)

R21-25: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (21 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R10-14: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R15: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-11: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R12: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Align the final row of the crest to R3-4 of the head, where the color change starts. Be sure that the HDC sts in R12 of the crest are facing up when attaching. Secure the flat piece of the crest to the head. Secure the edge of the stuffed piece to the head to prevent it from folding over.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle. 

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail. 

Attach arms over R10-16 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 9 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 13 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free amigurumi dinosaur Parasaurolophus crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Tips & Tricks

• While making this free amigurumi dinosaur pattern, use a stitch marker to keep track of each of your continuous rounds.
• Use the invisible decrease method for your SC2tog stitches to create more uniform stitches on your amigurumi dinosaur.
• Check out my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas to improve your crochet Parasaurolophus!

Alterations

• To create a larger plush version of this small amigurumi dinosaur Parasaurolophus crochet pattern, use a yarn like Parfait Chunky and a suitable hook size.
• For a larger version of this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern, be sure to check out Parker the Parasaurolophus.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this small Parasaurolophus amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern, you may also enjoy all of my free dinosaur crochet patterns! Be sure to check out my small Stygimoloch crochet pattern and my full size Parasaurolophus!

I’m so happy to share this free giraffe crochet pattern with you! I’ve been wanting to add an amigurumi giraffe to my pattern collection for a while, and this new pattern is one of my new favorites!

I would classify this free giraffe crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

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Add this free amigurumi giraffe pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Gerald the Giraffe

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces, with the exception of the tail, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, head, legs, and arms require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears or tail.  
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7-14: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R16: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18-19: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Start stuffing the body.

R21-24: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R25: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from *around. (15 sts)

R26: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color B (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head.  If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R9 and R10, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R5-7:1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R10: Fold the ear closed, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. Working through both sides, to close the ear, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 2 unworked sts at the end of the fold. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Insert hook through the remaining 2 unworked sts, pinch the bottom of the ear to bring each end together, and working through both sides, join the ear with 1 SC. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color C (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color C (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Horns (make 2)

Using color C (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R4: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Ch 5, turn, 1 SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Using color C (shown as brown):

Join yarn to the end of the tail. See tutorial photos.

R1: Ch 10, bring ends of ch together and sl st into the end of tail, creating a loop. Do not fasten off.

R2: Ch 10, bring ends of ch together and sl st into the end of tail, creating a loop. Do not fasten off.

R3: Ch 10, bring ends of ch together and sl st into the end of tail, creating a loop.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

Spots – Large (make 2)

Using color C (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Join with a sl st to beginning.

Cut yarn, leaving tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Spots – Medium (make 3)

Using color C (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Join with a sl st to beginning.

Cut yarn, leaving tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Spots – Small (make 3)

Using color C (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

Join with a sl st to beginning.

Cut yarn, leaving tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach each ear on the top of the head over R13-14, leaving about 9 sts between the ears.

Attach horns between the ears, over R13-14, leaving about 1 st between the horns.

Attach head to body so that the snout is facing straight out, attaching body to approximately R11-14 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs between R6-7 of the body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle.

Attach arms over R17-22 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 11 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 16 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Attach tail to the back of the body between R8-9. 

Pin spots around the body as desired and then sew in place. 

I hope you enjoyed this free giraffe crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Gerald the Giraffe

Tips & Tricks

• Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each of your continuous rounds when making this free amigurumi giraffe pattern.
• Use the invisible decrease method for your SC2tog stitches for this free giraffe crochet pattern.
• Take a look at my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more ideas when working on this free giraffe crochet pattern.

Alterations

• Create a larger amigurumi giraffe plush with this free giraffe crochet pattern by using a yarn like Parfait Chunky paired with a comparable hook size.
• Create a non-conventional giraffe by using rainbow colors for your free giraffe crochet pattern.

More Free amigurumi Animal Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this free giraffe crochet pattern, you may also enjoy my free elephant crochet pattern or my free whale crochet pattern! Be sure to check out my entire collection of free animal amigurumi crochet patterns as well!

Make these crochet water balloons for the kids to enjoy all summer long! These reusable water balloons are super quick to make and are great for using up scrap yarn.

Crochet water balloons can make such a fun gift, unique party favors, and are also really good sellers at craft sales. This crochet water balloon pattern works up really quickly and is great to add to your market prep list!

When making this reusable water balloon crochet pattern, I recommend using Bernat Blanket Yarn. The yarn is durable, and most importantly, absorbent! The Bernat Blanket Brights yarn has such fun summer colors!

Save this free crochet water balloons pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Pin this pattern for later.

Reusable Crochet Water Balloons

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
DC = double crochet
DC2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern.
• This pattern is worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.

pattern

R1: Begin with 6 DC in a magic ring. Join with a sl st to beginning. (6 sts)

R2: Ch 2, 2 DC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (12 sts)

R3: Ch 2, 1 DC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (12 sts)

R4: Ch 2, *DC2tog. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (6 sts)

R5: Ch 1, *SC2tog, SC in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (4 sts)

R6: Ch 1, 2 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

Crochet Water Balloons Video Tutorial

This video is also available on YouTube. Watch this video: Crochet Water Balloons Tutorial on YouTube.

More about Crochet Water Balloons

This reusable water balloon crochet pattern is a great alternative to the classic water balloons we’re used to! But if you aren’t yet convinced, here’s a bit more information!

How do Crochet Water Balloons work?

It’s super simple!

1. Grab a bucket and fill it with water,
2. Dunk your crochet water balloon (PRO TIP: give is a squeeze while under the water so it can soak up even more!),
3. Toss them at your unsuspecting target,
4. Repeat!

My kids love to use their crochet water balloons in the pool. The best part of pool use is that the crochet water balloons float, so they are easy to keep track of.

If you’re looking for more summer crochet patterns for your family to enjoy, be sure to check out my pattern for freeze pop holders!

More Great Patterns for Summer

Did you enjoy this reusable water balloon crochet pattern? Looking for some more fun patterns for summer? Take a look at these other free crochet patterns!