Yarn Weight: Super Bulky (6) – Crochet Pattern Store

Snuggle Bunny Amigurumi Free Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:58:27 +0000

Are you looking for the perfect free bunny crochet pattern to make for spring? This no sew amigurumi bunny isa quick project that makes a great addition to Easter baskets. This cute bunny works up nicely in velvet, chenille, blanket yarn, and more!

The best part about this free bunny crochet pattern is that it is entirely no sew! The legs, body, and head are worked continuously, with the tail, arms, and ears all crocheted directly into the piece as you work.

I would classify this free bunny crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Pin this no sew bunny crochet pattern on Pinterest for later.

Save this free bunny crochet pattern on Ravelry here.

Free Crochet Pattern for Snuggle Bunny

stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
DC = double crochet
DC2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
This pattern requires no sewing. The legs, body, and head are all worked as one piece, and the tail, arms, and ears are worked directly into the body as you work, rather than sewing later.
All pieces, with the exception of ear option 2, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Ear option 1 is worked in the round and is recommended for yarn choices that will show more stitch definition. Ear option 2 is worked flat and is recommended for yarn choices that are furry/fluffy.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
Legs, body, and head all require full stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the tail or arms.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using the hook size indicated in Pattern Specifics above:

Tail

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: Fold the tail closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3-8: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R9: Fold the arm closed, leaving 1 unworked st on each side for the fold. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across. (4 sts) See tutorial photos.

Fasten off.

Ear Option 1 (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R5-8: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R10: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R12-14: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R16: Fold the ear closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Ear Option 2 (make 2)

Note that you are working from the bottom of the ear to the to the top of the ear. Do not use the invisible decrease method for the decrease stitches in the ears.

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Ch 4, turn, 1 SC in second ch from hook and each st across. (3 sts)

R2: Ch 2, turn, 2 DC in first st, 1 DC in next st, 2 DC in last st. (5 sts)

R3-8: Ch 2, turn, 1 DC in each st across. (5 sts)

R9: Ch 2, turn, DC2tog, 1 DC in next, DC2tog. (3 sts)

R10: Ch 1, turn, SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. (2 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

First Leg

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3-5: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Fasten off.

Second Leg

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3-5: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R6: Ch 2. Join to first leg with a SC. Add a stitch marker to this first SC st. SC in each st around first leg, across ch 2, around second leg, back across ch 2, to beginning. (22 sts) See tutorial photos.

Do not fasten off. Move on to body.

Body

R7: 1 SC in each st around. (22 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 10 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Fill the legs with stuffing.

R10: 1 SC in each of the next 14 sts. Place the tail, and working through both the sts of the tail and the sts of the body, 1 SC in the next 3 sts. 1 SC in each of the next 13 sts. (30 sts) See tutorial photos.

R11-13: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R14: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R15-17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Place the first arm, and working through both the sts of the arm and the sts of the body, 1 SC in the next 4 sts. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts. Place the second arm, and working through the sts of the arm and the sts of the body, 1 SC in the next 4 sts. 1 SC in the last st. (24 sts) See tutorial photos.

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill the body with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to head.

Head

R21: 2 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R22: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R23-28: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R30: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert them between R27 and R28, with 5 sts between.

Fill the head with stuffing.

R31: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Note: Do not use the invisible decrease method for the stitches worked through the ears.

For Ear Option 1:

R32: SC2tog, SC2tog, Place the first ear, and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease), SC2tog (standard decrease; starting in the last st of the ear and finishing in the next st of the head), SC2tog (standard decrease; starting in the next st of the head and finishing in the first st of the second ear), and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease). See tutorial photos. (6 sts)

For Ear Option 2:

R32: SC2tog, SC2tog, Place the first ear, and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease). SC2tog, SC2tog. Place the second ear, and working through both the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, SC2tog (standard decrease). (6 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Finishing

Embroider a nose on R26, over 2 sts. Embroider a line from the middle of the nose, down 2 sts for the mouth. See tutorial photos.

If desired, embroider white edges around the eyes and add eyelids, or add eyelashes.

For video tutorials for embroidering on amigurumi, check out my amigurumi embroidery post.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Snuggle Bunny

Tips & Tricks

Keep track of your continuous rounds with this free bunny crochet pattern by using a stitch marker to indicate the first stitch of each round.
Use the invisible decrease method while making this no sew bunny crochet pattern to make your SC2tog stitches blend in with your single crochet stitches.
Check out this list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas for this free bunny crochet pattern.

Alterations

Try out different yarns with this no sew bunny crochet pattern like Parfait Chunky, blanket yarn, and many more, along with a hook that suits your desired yarn to create a variety of sizes. Click here for help choosing a hook size for your yarn choice on this no sew amigurumi bunny.
Use fur yarn to create a fun and fuzzy no sew amigurumi bunny.

More Free No sew Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free bunny crochet pattern! Take a look at my other free amigurumi crochet patterns. For more no sew amigurumi or minimal sewing amigurumi, check out this free bear crochet pattern and this no sew turtle crochet pattern.

Storage Bowls Amigurumi Free Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:58:10 +0000

Looking for a functional way to use your crochet skills and get organized this year? This free basket crochet pattern is the perfect solution! These small crochet basket patterns include two sizes to help you organize your desk, drawers, makeup, and more!

I would classify this free basket crochet pattern as a “beginner” level pattern. Minimal crochet experience is necessary. For more detailed instructions on the stitches used here, take a look at my crochet stitch tutorials.

Save this pattern on Pinterest to find it later.

Add this small crochet basket pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Storage Bowls

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
BLO = back loops only

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook size that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight so that your crochet basket pattern will stand upright.
This pattern is worked in the round.

Pattern

Using 9.0mm (M) hook:

Large Bowl

R1: Begin with 8 SC in a magic ring. Join with a sl st to beginning. (8 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (16 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (32 sts)

R5: Working in BLO, 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (32 sts)

R6-12: 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (32 sts)

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

Small Bowl

R1: Begin with 8 SC in a magic ring. Join with a sl st to beginning. (8 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (16 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

R4: Working in BLO, 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

R5-7: 1 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (24 sts)

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

I hope you enjoyed this free basket crochet pattern!

Tips & Tricks

No matter what yarn you choose to use, be sure that your hook size creates a tight enough fabric to allow the crochet basket pattern to stand upright.
Keep track of your rounds with this free basket crochet pattern by using a stitch marker in the first stitch.

More Free Crochet Patterns for your Home

I hope you enjoyed this free basket crochet pattern! Check out my other crochet patterns for your home, such as the small plant hanger or rainbow dreams wall hanging!

Mini Tanner the Triceratops – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:51:32 +0000

Meet Mini Tanner, the smaller version of my crochet triceratops pattern, Tanner the Triceratops. Mini Tanner is about half the height of the original Tanner, making him the perfect size for creating dinosaur amigurumi families.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

If you like this crochet triceratops pattern, you may be interested in all of my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.

Be sure to add this mini triceratops crochet pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Pin this pattern on Pinterest.

I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Mini Tanner the Triceratops

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet

Special Stitches

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
Body, head, legs, arms, tail, and horns require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this: (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 19, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (18 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R4-5, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R12-14, on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R15.

Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R5-6 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle.

Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 15 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this mini crochet triceratops pattern! After you make this crochet triceratops, be sure to check out my other dinosaur patterns, such as the full size Tanner the Triceratops or Mini Stevie the Stygimoloch.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Tanner the Triceratops

Tips & Tricks

Use stitch markers to keep track of your continuous rounds when making this free mini triceratops crochet pattern.
Use pins to hold the pieces of your crochet triceratops when sewing to keep your pieces in their desired placement.
This list of amigurumi tips and tricks are great to follow for your crochet triceratops and other amigurumi projects.

Alterations

Use this free strawberry modification to make a strawberry crochet triceratops!
Make a candy corn crochet triceratops version of Mini Tanner with this free pattern modification.
For a Christmas themed version of this crochet triceratops dinosaur, check out the Christmas tree cake dinosaur pattern modification!
For a larger crochet triceratops, check out the free crochet pattern for the original Tanner the Triceratops.
Use a plush yarn like Parfait Chunky to create a larger amigurumi dinosaur with this free crochet triceratops pattern.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free mini crochet triceratops pattern! If you love dinosaurs as much as I do, and want to crochet more amigurumi dinosaurs, check out my full collection of dinosaur crochet patterns.

Batter the Baseball Bear Amigurumi Free Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:50:03 +0000

I knew I wanted to add more sports themed bears to my pattern collection. This next addition is a cute and free baseball crochet pattern, Batter the Baseball Bear!

I would classify this free teddy bear baseball crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free crochet pattern on Pinterest to find it later.

Add this teddy bear baseball crochet pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Batter the Baseball Bear

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
All pieces, with the exception of the ears, require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using the hook size indicated in Pattern Specifics above:

Legs (make 2)

Using color A (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R5: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R11: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. (5 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Body

Using color B (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, place the first leg with 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, place the second leg with 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts. (30 sts)

R7-12: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R13: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat form * around. (24 sts)

R14: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to the head.

Head

Using color A (shown as brown):

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R17: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R19: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R20-24: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R25: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R26: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert them now between R23-24, with 5 sts between.

R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Weave in and out of remaining sts and pull tight to close. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3-5: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R7-9: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R10: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. (4 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Snout

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as light brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R4: Fold the ear closed. Working through both sides to close, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. (4 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Pin the snout to the front of the face, just below the eyes, over R19-23. Begin sewing, leaving an opening before sewing the entire way, add stuffing, and finish sewing.

Using black yarn, embroider nose on the snout at R2-3 with a line downwards to the middle of the magic ring.

Attach ears to each side of the top of the head, between R26-29.

Align pins along the body to outline the baseball threads. See tutorial photos. Using red yarn, embroider lines in the shape of a V around the body to resemble a baseball.

Video Tutorial for Baseball Embroidery

This video is also available on YouTube. Watch this video: Embroidering Baseball Crochet Tutorial on YouTube.

Attach arms over R11-14 of each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 16 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free baseball crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Batter the Baseball Bear

Tips & Tricks

When you are assembling this baseball bear crochet pattern, use pins to hold your pieces in place to ensure proper placement.
While working in continuous rounds on this free baseball crochet pattern, use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to keep track.
Check out this list of amigurumi tips for more helpful ideas for improving your amigurumi projects, like this baseball crochet pattern!

Alterations

Personalize this teddy bear baseball crochet pattern to match your favorite baseball team!
Use this bear baseball crochet pattern to make a softball bear by changing the white yarn to a bright yellow!
Adjust your hook size to the specific yarn that you are using when making this baseball crochet pattern. See my post on amigurumi hook sizes for more details.

More Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

Are you looking for a few more teddy bear crochet patterns to make after this baseball crochet pattern? You may enjoy my free crochet pattern for Fumble the Football Bear, my nearly no sew Charlie the Chunky Bear pattern, or my Hug Me Bear Lovey crochet pattern.

I hope you enjoyed this teddy bear baseball crochet pattern! See more of my amigurumi crochet patterns for free here on my blog!

Chandler the Chicken Amigurumi Free Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:45:35 +0000

I couldn’t have a farm animal collection without adding a free chicken crochet pattern! Meet Chandler the Chicken, my newest, and now smallest design of all of my farm animals.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

I would classify this free chicken crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free chicken crochet pattern for later on Pinterest.

I’ve made this free chicken crochet pattern in a variety of yarns. I especially loved my fur crochet chicken!

Add this crochet chicken amigurumi to your favorites and save it to your project queue on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Chandler the Chicken

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

Pattern Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
All pieces, with the exception of the feet and comb, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
Body, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the wings or beak.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

NOTE: The body is worked from the bottom up to the top of the head.

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8-12: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R13: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R14: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Using color B (shown as white):

R16-18: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R19-20, with 5 sts between each.

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R24: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand. Weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Wings (make 2)

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Fold the circle in half. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as cream):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R8: Fold the tail in half. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Beak

Using color C (shown as orange):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Feet (make 2)

Using color C (shown as orange):

R1: Ch 4, turn, sl st in second ch from hook and each st to end of row (the final st at the end of the row will be referred to herein as the base st).

Ch 3, turn, sl st in second ch from hook, next st, and the base st.

Ch 3, turn, sl st in second ch from hook, next st, and base st.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Comb

Using color D (shown as red):

R1: Ch 8, turn, SC in second ch from hook and each of the next 2 chs. Sl st into the next st. The remaining 3 unworked chs are herein referred to as the base chs.

Ch 6, turn, SC in second ch from hook and each of the next 4 chs, SC into the next unworked base ch, sl st into the next unworked base ch.

Ch 8, turn, SC in second ch from hook and each of the next 6 chs. SC into the last unworked base ch.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach comb to the top of the head, over R23-24, so that all three pieces are standing upright, with the longest in the front.

Attach beak to the front of the head, between the eyes, at R18.

Attach feet to the front of the body, between R7-8, in line with each eye (with approximately 7 sts between the two feet). Be sure to only sew down the middle, so that each of the three points can move freely.

Attach tail to the back of the body, between R6-7. Further secure the tail around R10-11, so that the tail will stay upright against the back of the body.

Attach each wing to either side of the body, with the rounded edge facing down, just below where the first row of color B (white) starts. Angle the wing downwards towards the tail. Further secure the wing to the body, near the middle of the wing, so that it will stay tight against the side of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free crochet chicken pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Chandler the Chicken

Tips & Tricks

When working in continuous rounds of this amigurumi crochet chicken, keep track of your rows with a stitch marker.
Use the invisible decrease to eliminate any noticeable bumps in your stitches when making this crochet chicken pattern.
Reference this list of amigurumi tips for more helpful tips and tricks for improving your amigurumi on this crochet chicken pattern!

Alterations

Use a yarn like Parfait Chunky or another size 6 yarn, along with a hook that suits your desired yarn to create a much larger crochet chicken amigurumi! When I use Parfait Chunky yarn, I use a 5mm crochet hook.
Want to turn this free chicken crochet pattern into a hen amigurumi or a chick for Easter? Just make the whole body and comb piece in one solid color, like yellow!
Using fur yarn when making this free chicken crochet pattern to create a fun and fuzzy crochet chicken amigurumi!
Take a look at this list of modification ideas to transform this crochet chicken pattern into a variety of different birds!

More Free Farm Animal Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free chicken crochet pattern! If you want to create even more cute farm animal amigurumi, be sure to check out my full collection of free farm animal crochet patterns! Some of my favorites include: Hailey the Horse, Presley the Pig, and Daphne the Duck!

Echo the Whale Amigurumi Free Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:44:33 +0000

I wanted to make sure to design a summer amigurumi project, and what better way than with this free whale crochet pattern! Echo the Whale is a simple crochet whale with a crown of flowers on her head.

I would classify this free whale crochet pattern as “advanced beginner.” It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Pin this crochet whale pattern on Pinterest.

Add this whale free crochet pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Echo the Whale

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
Body of whale requires stuffing. Stuff as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the tail or fins.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R9-14: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R16: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. Place a st marker in the last st worked. 1 SC in each of the next 18 sts. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 18 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8-9, with approximately 17 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R18-21: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R22: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 18 sts. (30 sts)

R23-24: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R25: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R27-28: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, SC2tog four times, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. (14)

R30: 1 SC in each st around. (14 sts)

R31: *1 SC, SC2tog. Repeat from * an additional 1 time. 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from ** an additional 1 time. 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. (14 sts)

R32: SC2tog, 1 SC, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * an additional 1 time. 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. (14 sts)

Ensure that body is fully stuffed at this point.

Tail (Part 1)

Note that the tail should remain unstuffed.

R33: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Add a st marker to the next st, but leave it, and the following 6 stitches unworked. 1 SC in each remaining stitch to beginning. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

R34: 2 SC in each st around. (14 sts)

R35: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R36-38: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

R39: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (14 sts)

R40: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R41: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R42: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Tail (Part 2)

Attach yarn to R32 of body, where you placed a st marker.

R33: 1 SC in each st around. (7 sts)

R34-42: Repeat R34-42 of Tail (Part 1).

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

You may notice that there is a small space in between the base of the two tails. If so, close the hole with a piece of yarn and weave in the ends.

Fins (make 2)

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R7: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R11: Fold the fin closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Flowers (make 3)

Using color B (shown as pink):

R1: Working in a magic ring: *1 SC, ch 4. Repeat from * an additional 4 times. Sl st to beginning SC. (5 ch 4 spaces)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach fins between R14 and R15, just below eye level, sewing both at the end of the fin and in the middle to secure it down.

Attach flowers to the top of the head, at approximately R9-10, leaving about 2 sts between the bottom of each flower.

I hope you enjoyed this free whale crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Echo the Whale

Tips & Tricks

While making this crochet whale pattern and working in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds.
The invisible decrease method of SC2tog stitches will help to eliminate any noticeable bumps in your stitches when making this free whale crochet pattern.
Reference my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas for this crochet whale amigurumi!

Alterations

Use a yarn like Parfait Chunky or another bulky weight yarn, along with a suitable hook size, will create a larger crochet whale.
Eliminate the flower crown on this whale free crochet pattern for a more gender neutral crochet whale.

More Free Animal Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free whale crochet pattern! If you’re looking for even more amigurumi projects, be sure to check out mycollection of 50+ amigurumi animal crochet patterns! You may especially enjoy my mini whale free crochet pattern, or Nala the No-Sew Turtle!

Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:43:00 +0000

My favorite dinosaur is the Parasaurolophus, so I absolutely had to add one to my amigurumi dinosaur collection! Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus is the smaller version of my Parker the Parasaurolophus crochet pattern.

I would classify this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

If you like this pattern, you may also be interested in all of my other free dinosaur crochet patterns.

Pin this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern on Pinterest.

Add this mini Parasaurolophus crochet pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
All pieces are worked in the round, unless otherwise specified. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
Body, head, crest, legs, arms, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (28 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (28 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12-16: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3-4: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: 1 SC in each of the next 16 sts. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 14 sts.

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R18: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R20: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Crest

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in next st. (18 sts)

R4-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 13 sts. (16 sts)

R11: SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 12 sts. (14 sts)

*Note that R12 has fewer stitches than the previous and is not a “complete” round. You will not work in every stitch from R11.

R12: 1 HDC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 10 sts. Leave the final stitch unworked. (14 sts)

Fill crest with stuffing.

*Note that R13 will now begin in the final stitch that was left unworked.

R13: Fold the crest closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (6 sts)

R14-15: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (6 sts)

R16: Ch 1, turn, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, SC2tog. (4 sts)

R17-19: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (4 sts)

R20: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. (3 sts)

R21-25: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (21 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R10-14: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R15: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-11: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R12: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Align the final row of the crest to R3-4 of the head, where the color change starts. Be sure that the HDC sts in R12 of the crest are facing up when attaching. Secure the flat piece of the crest to the head. Secure the edge of the stuffed piece to the head to prevent it from folding over.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle.

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach arms over R10-16 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 9 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 13 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free amigurumi dinosaur Parasaurolophus crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Tips & Tricks

While making this free amigurumi dinosaur pattern, use a stitch marker to keep track of each of your continuous rounds.
Use the invisible decrease method for your SC2tog stitches to create more uniform stitches on your amigurumi dinosaur.
Check out my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas to improve your crochet Parasaurolophus!

Alterations

To create a larger plush version of this small amigurumi dinosaur Parasaurolophus crochet pattern, use a yarn like Parfait Chunky and a suitable hook size.
For a larger version of this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern, be sure to check out Parker the Parasaurolophus.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this small Parasaurolophus amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern, you may also enjoy all of my free dinosaur crochet patterns! Be sure to check out my small Stygimoloch crochet pattern and my full size Parasaurolophus!

Reusable Water Balloons Amigurumi Free Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:41:19 +0000

Make these crochet water balloons for the kids to enjoy all summer long! These reusable water balloons are super quick to make and are great for using up scrap yarn.

Crochet water balloons can make such a fun gift, unique party favors, and are also really good sellers at craft sales. This crochet water balloon pattern works up really quickly and is great to add to your market prep list!

When making this reusable water balloon crochet pattern, I recommend using Bernat Blanket Yarn. The yarn is durable, and most importantly, absorbent! The Bernat Blanket Brights yarn has such fun summer colors!

Save this free crochet water balloons pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Pin this pattern for later.

Reusable Crochet Water Balloons

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
DC = double crochet
DC2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern.
This pattern is worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.

pattern

R1: Begin with 6 DC in a magic ring. Join with a sl st to beginning. (6 sts)

R2: Ch 2, 2 DC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (12 sts)

R3: Ch 2, 1 DC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (12 sts)

R4: Ch 2, *DC2tog. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (6 sts)

R5: Ch 1, *SC2tog, SC in next st. Repeat from * around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (4 sts)

R6: Ch 1, 2 SC in each st around. Join with a sl st to beginning. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

Crochet Water Balloons Video Tutorial

This video is also available on YouTube. Watch this video: Crochet Water Balloons Tutorial on YouTube.

More about Crochet Water Balloons

This reusable water balloon crochet pattern is a great alternative to the classic water balloons we’re used to! But if you aren’t yet convinced, here’s a bit more information!

How do Crochet Water Balloons work?

It’s super simple!

Grab a bucket and fill it with water,
Dunk your crochet water balloon (PRO TIP: give is a squeeze while under the water so it can soak up even more!),
Toss them at your unsuspecting target,
Repeat!

My kids love to use their crochet water balloons in the pool. The best part of pool use is that the crochet water balloons float, so they are easy to keep track of.

If you’re looking for more summer crochet patterns for your family to enjoy, be sure to check out my pattern for freeze pop holders!

More Great Patterns for Summer

Did you enjoy this reusable water balloon crochet pattern? Looking for some more fun patterns for summer? Take a look at these other free crochet patterns!

Memphis the Moo-Cow Amigurumi Free Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:39:14 +0000

What better time to create a free cow crochet pattern then a new baby! My new nephew has a cow themed nursery, so I knew I had to create a crochet cow amigurumi for him!

I would classify this free cow crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Save this free cow crochet pattern on Pinterest.

Add this amigurumi cow crochet pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

This free cow crochet pattern is part of my farm animal collection!

Free Crochet Pattern for Memphis the Moo Cow

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
All pieces, with the exception of the tail, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
Body, head, legs, arms, and horns require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color B (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8-9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-14: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R15: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R18: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R20: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand. Weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Ear 1

Using color C (shown as black):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R5-6:1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R8: Fold the ear closed, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. Working through both sides, to close the ear, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 2 unworked sts at the end of the fold. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Insert hook through the remaining 2 unworked sts, pinch the bottom of the ear to bring each end together, and working through both sides, join the ear with 1 SC. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Ear 2

Using color C (shown as black):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R5: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

Insert hook through the remaining 2 unworked sts, pinch the bottom of the ear to bring each end together, and working through both sides, join the ear with 1 SC. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Horns (make 2)

Using color D (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color D (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: work in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color D (shown as brown):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Work in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Ch 5, turn, 1 SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Using color C (shown as black):

Join yarn to the end of the tail. See tutorial photos.

R1: Ch 10, bring ends of ch together and sl st into the end of tail, creating a loop. Do not fasten off.

R2: Ch 10, bring ends of ch together and sl st into the end of tail, creating a loop. Do not fasten off.

R3: Ch 10, bring ends of ch together and sl st into the end of tail, creating a loop.

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in ends.

Spot 1

Using color C (shown as black):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

*Note that R3 has fewer stitches than the previous and is not a “complete” round. You will not work in every stitch from R2. This is to achieve the different shapes for the spots.

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC I next st. Repeat from * an additional time. (6 sts)

Sl st into the next st.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Spot 2

Using color C (shown as black):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

*Note that R4 has fewer stitches than the previous and is not a “complete” round. You will not work in every stitch from R3. This is to achieve the different shapes for the spots.

R4: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, 2 DC in next st, 1 DC in next st. (7 sts)

Sl st into the next st.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Spot 3

Using color C (shown as black):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

*Note that R4 has fewer stitches than the previous and is not a “complete” round. You will not work in every stitch from R3. This is to achieve the different shapes for the spots.

R4: 2 DC in next st. (2 sts)

Sl st into the next st.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach each ear pointing downward, over R14-15, leaving about 10 sts between each ear.

Attach horns on the inside of each ear, leaving 1 stitch between the ear and horn, over R14-15.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out, attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle.

Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 15 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Using color D (brown), embroider lines for the hooves by wrapping yarn around R3-5 of the middle of each arm and R3-6 of the middle of each leg.

Attach tail to the back of the body on R5.

Attach spots around the body as desired.

I hope you enjoyed this free cow crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Memphis the Moo Cow

Tips & Tricks

Using the invisible decrease method for your SC2tog stitches make your decreases blend in with your other single crochet stitches on this cow crochet pattern.
Using a stitch marker when making this crochet cow will help you to keep track of the beginning if your continuous rounds.
Check out my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful tips for improving your amigurumi!

Alterations

Using a larger plush yarn like Parfait Chunky or Bernat Blanket yarn, along with a comparable hook size, will create a larger crochet cow amigurumi.
Customize this cute amigurumi cow crochet pattern with a few color changes to create a themed crochet cow. You can create a strawberry cow, chocolate cow, blueberry cow, and so much more!

More Free Amigurumi Animal Crochet Patterns

If you’ve enjoyed this cute cow crochet pattern, I’m sure you’ll love my other amigurumi animal patterns! My favorites include Gerald the Giraffe, Daniel the Dog, and Elliot the Elephant! For more farm animal patterns, be sure to check out my farm animal crochet pattern collection!

Mini Toby the Tarbosaurus – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

Crochet Pattern — Thu, 11 Jul 2024 06:37:22 +0000

If you’re looking for a small crochet T Rex pattern, look no further! To pair with my original Toby the Tarbosaurus, I’ve also created a mini version! This free crochet T Rex pattern is based on the Tarbosaurus dinosaur, which is very similar to a Tyrannosaurus Rex.

I would classify this free crochet t rex pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

If you like this pattern, you may also like my full collection of free dinosaur crochet patterns.

Pin this crochet t rex pattern on Pinterest.

Add this Mini Tarbosaurus crochet pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Free Crochet Pattern for Mini Toby the Tarbosaurus

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

Notes

Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
All pieces are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
Body, head, legs, arms, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the spikes.
See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as purple):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-12: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R13: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R14-18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color A (shown as purple):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as purple):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as purple):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-11: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R12: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as purple):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Spikes (make 7)

Using color B (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R4: Fold the spike closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning. See tutorial photos. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Using color A (purple), embroider nostrils over R2-3 of the nose, leaving about 3 sts between each.

Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle.

Attach arms over R12-18 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 10 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 14 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Using color C (white), embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R3-5, leaving about 2 sts between each nail and embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

Beginning at the tip of the tail, and using pins to keep them even, arrange spikes in a line up the tail, back, and over the head.

I hope you enjoyed this free amigurumi crochet T Rex pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Toby the Tarbosaurus

Tips & Tricks

To ensure that your pieces are sewn on straight, use pins to hold them in place, especially for the spikes of this crochet dinosaur pattern!
To have your decreasing stitches blend in better with your other single crochet stitches on your crochet T Rex, use the invisible decrease method.
For smoother color changes, follow my seamless color change tutorial.
Check out my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas!

Alterations

If you would like to create a larger version of this crochet T Rex, use a yarn like Parfait Chunky and a suitable hook size.
For a larger version of this dinosaur crochet pattern, check out the original Toby the Tarbosaurus pattern.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this small crochet T Rex pattern, be sure to check out my full collection of free dinosaur crochet patterns! You may enjoy my mini Parasaurolophus crochet pattern or my mini Triceratops crochet pattern.